Runproof or run-resistant stocking having picot edge or fashionings



June l, 1937. H. v. w. scoTT RUNPROOF OH RUN RESISTANT STOCKING HAVING PICOT EDGE OR FASHIONINGS Filed Aug. l, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet l ....i si n..

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a June l, 1937.' H, v, w SCOT-|- 2,082,360

RUNPROOF OR RUN RESISTANT STOCKING HAVING PICOT EDGE 0R FASHIONINGSA Filed Aug. 1, 1956 s4 Sheets-Sheet 2 mwen/a?? b Eeezf V. WScoZ,

June l, 1937. H. v. w. scoTT 2,082,360

RUNPROOF OR RUN RESISTANT STOCKING HAVING PICOT EDGE OR FASHIONINGS I Filed Aug. l, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 f l WI IHNHlI(lHIHIIIHIIIHIIIIHH HUHHHHHHIIIIHIIWHHWT HHHHIHHWIII 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 H. V. W. SCOTT Filed Aug. l, 1956 RUFROOF OB RUN RESISTANT -STOCKING HAVING PCOT EDGE OR FASHIONINGS June 1, 1937,

Patented June 1, 1937 RUNPROOF GR RUN-RESISTANT STOCKING HAVING PICOTl EDGE R FASHIONINGS Herbert V. W. Scott, Glen Ridge, N. J., assignor to Van Raalte Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation oi New York Application Aug-ust 1, 1936, Serial No. 93,837

'(Cl. (i6-169) 14 Claims.

Thisapplica-tion is in part a division, and is a continuation as to common subject matter, of my co-pending application Ser. No. 651,154, filed January 1l, 1933.

So f .aras mechanism herein shown is concerned, this application is a continuation as to common subject matter of my co-pending application Ser. No. 628,391, filed August 11, 1932, now Patent No. 1,978,410, dated October 30,' 1934. The type of 1.0 fabric to which my invention particularly applies is that shown in my said Patent No. 1,978,410, and also in my Patent No. 2,009,565, dated July 30, 1935.

yThis invention relates to a run-prooi or runresistant stocking having a picot edge or improved narrowings.

In order that the principleof the invention may be readily understood, I have disclosed sufciently the general structure of the run-proof or run-resistant stocking, 4and particularly the Theinstep of the stocking is desirably an actual continuation in the knitting operation of the fabric of the leg, the Warp threads, one for substantially each needle Wale, being continued integrally into the instep. The stocking is provided with a heel, high splice, sole and toe, which may be of the character disclosed in my said Patent No. 1,978,410.

The fabric is Yknitted uniformly throughout. In knitting the same, .I may use means of the general character shown in my said Patent No. 1,978,410, but if Vdesired keeping all the warp thread fingers in action throughout the knitting of the blank excepting that in forming the character of the picot edge thereof, and I have suiciently disclosed one form of means for making the fabric of my invention.

In the drawings: Fig. 1 is a plan view upon a greatly enlarged scale showing the character of the knitted loops of the tope-part of the stocking and' showing the picot edge as the same appears when the stock-1.A

ing is folded at said edge;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but representing the two walls of the welt of the stocking as laid out in the same plane to makeclear the structure of the picot edge;

Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the preferred form of means for making the fabric herein disclosed;

Fig. 4 is a diagram indicating the path of the Warp threads;

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view taken through the needles, warp guide fingers, picot bar, etc.;

Fig. 6 isa front elevation of the picot bar employed in making the picotedge shown in Figs. 1 and 2; and

Figs. 7 and 8 ,are views of a non-run fabric having fashionings wherein the warp threads are not laterallyy transferred. if

So far as the non-run or run-resistant char- -facter of the fabric is concerned, it is desirably that disclosed in my said Patent No. 1,978,410. The present invention is not concerned with the 50 method or manner of vfashioning1 or shaping the fabric. 'I'he stockingof the general character to which my invention applies is shown in Fig. 2

of my said Patent No. 1,978,410.

The completed stocking (not herein shown) is picot edge the warp threads are temporarily held from the formation of loops therein for a few courses, desirably about three in number, as illustrated in Fig. 2, this being accomplished in any suitable Way, as will be more fully described hereinafter. L 20 'I'he warp threads may be laid about the needles in thefsame manner as disclosed in my Patent No. 1,978,410, but preferably I vary the stitch from that shown in said patent by using f the stitch shown in my Patent No. 2,026,192, De-

cember 31, 1935.

The leg blank having 'been suitably formed, the stocking may be completed in any suitable manner, as upon a footer, and thereafter the entire blank is seamed from the top of the welt A is'.individual` thereto and preferably'restricted 55 thereto, so that the fabric is of great elasticity.

In this embodiment of my invention, I make a picot edge at the top of the stocking (namely,v at the fold of the welt), and this I have indicated generally at y26 in Figs. 1 and 2. Before describ- 40 ing the means for making the said picot edge and stating how'the proper' tension is applied to certain of the warp threads entering into the structure of the picot edge, I will refer briefly to the character of the fabric shown in Figs. 1 and 2. 45 In said figures, the main knitting thread is indicated at 21 and each warp thread is illustrated preferablyA provided at its upper end with a Welt.

at 28. While my-invention is in no respect lim- A ited thereto and the' same is disclosed merely as one illustrative embodiment o f the invention, I point out that instead of introducing the warp threads 28 by a movement ofthe warp guide ilngers entirely about the needles, as disclosed' in my said application Ser. No. 628,391, now Patent No.,1,978,410, I cause each warp thread to extend `partly about its needle and then back to its former position, so as to position said warp threads to enter inside the beards, each warpv finger moving as in forming a letter U, or a somewhat attened semicircle, each nger being then returned to its former position, substantially as indicated in Fig. 4 hereof, thereby making a fabric such as indicated in Fig. 8 of my Patent No. 2,026,192.

It is to be understood, however, that so far as the shape of the blank and the trimming thereof are concerned, my invention is'not limited to any particular path of movementl given to the warp thread guides or fingers;

The result of laying lthe warp threads by a substantially semicircular and return movement is to lay the said warp threads as shownin Figs. 1 and 2, wherein each warp thread 28 is incorporated by a knitting operation in each stitch of its own needle wale. Each such warp thread 28 in each stitch lies in parallelism with the stitch of the main thread and after the warp thread Z8 has been completelyy positioned in its own loop, it then isrpositioned in the next loop in its own Wale (that is, in the next course), and in being so positioned the bend 28a in each warp thread is first at the right hand side of a loop viewing Fig. 2, next at the left hand side, etc. throughout the entire formation of the needle wale,ex

cept in the picot edge formation now to be de` scribed.

The picot edge is shown in the folded condition of the fabric in Fig. 1 and in its opened out or flat condition in Fig. 2. Viewing these figures, and particularly Fig. 2, it will be observed that at the picot edge 26 alternate loops ofthe body or weft thread have been shifted to the left viewing said figure. Such loops are there designated at 29. It will beobserved that this provides the character of stitch picot openings 30, and I'have referred to the warp threads as 28h at those points where the main thread of that needle wale 4 has been laterally transferred so as to leave the openings 30 and to leave the said warp threads at 2817 in said openings without lateral transfer.

In order to make the lateral transfer of the main or weft thread loops I employ a picot bar to be hereinafter more particularly referred to, and cause points of said bar to enter the desired loops or stitchesof the body` or weft thread (herein alternate loop's or stitches in one course) and laterally transfer the same (that is, only the loops of the body or weft thread).

A difliculty arises in. doing this where warp threads are present'in the needle wales because after the said points have entered their loops and rise with the loops to transfer them, such rising or lifting action tends to lift the loops of the fabric at that point slightly above the plane or level of the entire fabric, and thus to interfere with or somewhat to impair the tension upon those particular warp threads which are in loops that are being` laterally transferred.

In order to overcome this difliculty, and to coact to prevent the lateral transfer of the warp threads 28 with the loops of the body or weft thread, I provide a tensioning means pertaining only to the warp threads 28h (that1is,'f the needle walespweft loops of which are laterally transferred to form the'plcot edge). This tensioning means may be applied and preferably is applied-only at or substantially at thetime when the picot edge is being formed, and is supplemental or additional to such tension upon allthe warp threadsas is or maybe resorted to by me.

One form of such additional tensioning means is represented in Fig. 3. In Fig. 3 is represented a bracket 3| secured at 32 to the upright 33 of the framing. Said bracket has rockingly mounted stood that the rod 31 extends above and thus rests with suilicient weight upon the warp threads 28h; that is,v upon each and all of the warp threads which are in needle wales, main or weft thread loops whereof are laterally transferred in making the picot edge. Thus the additional tension, which is imparted only to the warp threads of needle wales,'loops of which are transferred in forming the picot edge, prevents the lateral movement of those warp threads during the lateral transfer further than as'shown inl Fig. 2, and thereby assists in the proper formation of the picot edge. Inasmuch as the other or alternate warp' threads pass above the bar 31, they receive no tension therefrom. Thus, those warp threads to which additional tension is applied are restrained or held by said tension from lateral transfer, because such additional tension is sufiicient to prevent the said warp threads rising with the points of the picot bar. said picot bar points transfer only the loops of the main or weft-thread and the warp threads remain in their respective needle wales as before, all as clearly indicated in Fig. 2 of the drawings hereof.

The picot bar is represented at 38 in Figs.' 5 and 6. It may be made of greater extent from top to bottom than the ordinary picot bar so that its points 39 when in elevated position may be properly positioned with respect to the other elements of the mechanism. The knitting needles are represented at 40', the sinkers at 4I, the

-knocking over bits at 42, the warp thread fingers at 43 and the main thread carrier at 44. These may be of the construction set forth in my said Patent No. 1,978,410.

While any suitable means may be provided to operate the picot bar in order to cause the same to make the "picot edge, I have preferably provided substantially the meansl represented iri Figs. 10 and 11 of my said Patent No. 1,978,410, where the movement of the narrowing bars is used for the purpose of laterally transferring loops for narrowing, whereas I herein utilize'the` of the narrowing Abar 46 is to the extent of one needle for this purpose; a one needle movement is conventional as well as a two' needle movement, as is well known to 'those skilled in the art.

In Fig.`3, I have represented v"sufficient of the general mechanism' of my 'invention and its adaptation to the well known Reading type of machine to' makethe' -same entirely clear. I have Thus, the

represented end portion only of a Reading machine o the full fashioned type, and that merely sufliciently to -show the application of means for practicing my invention on one section thereof, but it is to be understood that all the sections of the machine are provided with means for properly introducing the warp' threads each into one needle Wale only of the fabric.

A horizontal portion of the framing is represented at 55 in Fig. 3.\ Upstanding therefrom and suitably bolted thereto at each end' of the machine frame is a bracket 56, and at the inner or left hand end of the rst section and at a corresponding place for each section except the endmost section at the left, there is an upright 33a similarly bolted to the frame portion 55.

A shaft 51 is supported in the uprights 33,V 33a and extends the entire length of the machine. vUpon that portion of the shaft between each two vnext adjacent uprights, I provide a single warp spool 58. These spools are all loose upon the `shaft 51 but they'are all restrained from rotation supplemental tensioning means (not shown) pass Y through suitable guides and then to the warp thread fingers 63.

It will be understoodthat the timing of the movements of the warp thread ngers 43 and of the main thread carrier is generally the same as that shown in my earlier application Ser. No. 628,391, now Patent No. 1,978,410, excepting that the warp threads are laid in a U shaped and return or semicircular and return path instead ofY in a rectangular path. The traverse of the main thread carrier starts substantially simultaneously with the commencement of the thread laying operation of the warp threads. The knit-` ting needles commence their descent immediately after each course of the main knitting thread i laid.

In order to impart both axial ymovement and the proper rocking movement to the rod or shaft indicated at 63 in the several views, I preferably employ means similar to means shown in my said application which eventuated in Patent No. 1,978,410, but modified to provide for the novel manner' of positioning the warp threads.

Against one end of the said rod or shaft 6 takes the inclined end of a vertical spindle or and which is fast upon a countershaft 1|v mounted ina bearing in a bracket 1|a and prov vided with a gear 12 in mesh with a pinion '13 itself fast on the main cam shaft 14 correspond- Aing-to the main cam shaft 81 of my said Patent No. 1,978,410. The ratio of the gear and pinion 12 and 13 is such that the speedy of the countershaft is one halfthat of the said shaft 14 and therefore the result of the combined rocking and axial movement of the shaft 13 is to move each of the Warp thread fingers in a. U shaped path and back again, as shown at 15 in Fig. 4.

Fast upon the main cam shaft 14 is a cam 16 having a cut-out portion as shown. Upon said cam 16 rests a roll 11 which is pivotally mounted at 18 upon an upright rod or link 19 suitably connected at its upper end at to aflever arm 8| fast upon the shaft 63. The said main shaft 14 is adapted to be moved axially in accordance with the customary operation of the Reading machine. The cam 16 is composed of two disk members 16a, 16b occupying a face to face relation. It is as the roll 11 restsupon the disk member 16b.

The cam 16 is suitably shaped to impart through the described connections a rocking movement to the shaft 63, and at the same rtime the said shaft is longitudinally moved as described. The resultis to lay each warp thread in a substantially U shaped or semicircular and return path with respect to the kniting needles, so that the warp threads are positioned in the needles, so as to produce the fabric shown in Figs. 1 and 2 hereof, which fabric, excepting for the matter of lateral transfer of weft thread loops and nontransfer of warp thread loops, is also shown in Fig. 8 of mypPatent No. 2,026,192.

The roll 69, which is pivotally connected as described to the upright link 61, is also mounted in or carried by a lever 82 which may be mounted and operated in the general manner disclosed in my said Patent No. 1,978,410.

The warp thread fingers 43 are.` mounted upon a bar 59 composed of one or more blocks or parts. 'I'he said bar 59 is carried by the rod or shaft 63 through the instrumentality of two collars 59a, 59a rigid with said bar and through which said rod or shaft 63 passes. Set screws 5913l are provided to secure said bar 59 in rigid relation with said shaft or rod 63.

When it is desired to form the picot edge, for which purpose all the warp threads are heldin such position that the loops cannot be formed in said warp threads during one or more courses, the said warps are rendered inactive to form their `loops during desirably three courses in any suitable way, and preferably either by shifting the main cam shaft14 axially so as to bring the disk member 16a under the roll 11 or by the operator manually loosening the said screws 59h and thereupon swinging the bar 59 with its'warp fingers into inactive position so that for the desired number of courses (preferably three, as represented in Fig. 2), stitches will not be made in the warp threads. While the said warp threads are thus inactive to have stitches formed therein during one or more courses, the weft loops 29 are laterally shifted as hertofore described and as shown'in. Fig. 2, thus forming the openings 3 0 through which the said warpthreads 28h extend as shown in Fig. 2. shown in said Fig. 2, will, in the completed fabric, lie as shown in Fig. 2 without having had loops formed therein during the said three or other selected number of courses. At the end of said number of courses the cam shaft 14 is moved axially so as to bring the disk member 16a again under thel roll 11, or alternatively, the bar The intervening warp threads 28, as

59 with its warp thread fingers is swung inwardly continued of the character shown either above or below the picot edge in Fig. 2.

In Figs. 7 and 8, I have shown how .the principle of my invention is applied in making the narrowing or fashionings of a non-run stocking. Said stocking may be otherwise constructed as shown and described in connection with Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, and may or may not be provided with-the character of picot edge shown in Figs. 1 and 2. In knitting the blank shown in Fig. 7 loops of which upon an enlarged scale are shown in Fig. 8) the knitting is preferably carried out by mechanism the same or substantially the same as that shown in Figs. 3, `4, and (that is to say, I preferably provide a separate warp thread for each needle wale) I may knit the blank of the same width throughout down tothe toe, or may knit the same of full width past the leg narrowings, and then abruptly shorten the traverse of .the fabric be knitted, I provide lines of fashioning marks indicated at 82, 83 in Fig. 7 by laterally l transferring stitches inward, thereby leaving lines of openings 84, 85 parallel with said narrowing marks. This I may do in a manner generally similar to that disclosed in my Patent No. 1,978,410, excepting that I do not, when transferring stitches, transfer loops both of the warp threads and of the weft or main thread.

In Fig. 8, the main or body thread is indicated at 86 and the several warp threads are indicated at 81. In the courses just prior to and just subsequent to the several respective courses where the narrowing marks are made, the several warp threads are positioned in loops in the respective needle wales, as clearly shownvin said Fig. 8.

When a course is reached where narrowing marks are to be made, I cause the lateral'transfer of the weft loop element only of the stitches in that part of the fabric, as is indicated clearly at 88 in Fig. 8. In that portion of such a course where the lateral transfer of weft or-main body loops is.

out forming loops therein) This operation is repeated Whenever it is desired-to form the narrowing marks 82, 83 and the openings 84, 85.' In Fig. 8, I have illustrated this operation as occurv,ring at three points, but it is understood that it is or may be-continued throughout the extent of the narrowings, whether those narrowings be in the calfor at or above the knee or in the heel.

It is also to be understood that the manner of fashioning shown in Fig. 8 may be used either to narrow or to widen the fabric. If the fabric is to be widened, the transferring occurs in an outward direction instead of an inward direction. 'I'herefore my invention is not restricted as to all aspects thereof to the knitting of a stocking, as the same principle may be applied to the fashioning or shaping of a fabric. f

Having thus described one illustrative ernbodiment of the invention, it is to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the A invention being set forth in the following claims.

I claim:

1. A fabric for a shaped or fashioned stocking consisting of a main knitting thread regularly knitted course after course and separate warp vthreads one for each needle Wale, certain of the loops being laterally transferred to provide the picot edge of the stocking, the warp threads of those needle wales wherefrom loops are laterally transferred to form the picot edge extending in a -lengthwise direction through the picot openings Without lateral transfer of said warp threads.

2. A stocking of a non-run character comprising a main knitting thread and Warp threads one to each needle wale and restricted thereto, said stocking having loops of alternate nedle wales laterally transferred to provide a picot edge, the warp threads of those needle wales wherefrom loops are laterally transferred themselves extending without lateral transfer lengthwise the said needle wales through said picot openings.

A3. A knitted fabric consisting of a main knitting thread and warp threads each restricted to a single needle Wale, each warp thread knitted into 'each loop of itsown needle wale and reversed upon itself atalternate sides of immediately successive loops in the same needle wale, certain of the knitted loops of the main knitting thread being ,laterally transferred, the warp threads pertaining to said laterally transferred loops extending lengthwise of the needle Wales through the openings provided by said transfer of loops, without themselves being laterally transferred. y

4. A knitted fabric having courses composed of a knitted body thread and of a series of warp threads extending lengthwise the fabric and respectively knitted in loops in successive courses into different loops of said body thread in such courses, some ofthe stitches of the said body thread being laterally transferred to vary the fabric, the Warp threads being non-transferred at. such points of lateral transfer of stitches of the main body thread, but nevertheless continuing in-the fabric in knitted loop formation in succeeding courses.

5.y A knitted fabric having courses composed of a knitted body thread and of a series of warp threads extending lengthwise the 'fabric and respectively knitted in loops in successive courses into different loops of said body threadin such courses, some of the stitches of the said body thread being laterally transferred to vary the fabric, the warp threads at such points lying in their respectiveneedle wales in unlooped condition, and in subsequent courses lying in knitted looped condition in the fabric.

6. A shaped or fashioned knitted fabric having courses composed of a knitting body threadl and of a series of warp threads extending lengthwise lthe fabric and respectively knitted Ain loops in successive courses into different loops of said body thread in such courses, and including fashioning needle wales of the fabric, stitches of. the main body thread at the shaped or fashioned areas of said fabric being laterally transferred to shape or' fashion the fabric, the warp threads at such points being non-transferred and lying each in its own needle wale.

7. A shaped or fashioned knitted fabric having courses composed of a knitted body thread and of a series of warp threads extending lengthwise the fabric and respectively knitted in loops in successive coursesinto different' loops 0f said body thread in such courses, and including fashioning needle wales of the fabric, stitches of the main body thread at the shaped or fashioned areas of said fabric being laterally transferred to shape or fashion the fabric, the warp threads at such points of lateral transfer of the body thread lying in their respective needle wales without lateral transfer.

8. A shaped or fashioned run-proof or strongly run-resistant fabric having courses-of loops composed of a body thread and of a series of warp threads, one for substantially each needle Wale of said fabric, said warp threads being collectively knitted into stitches of said needle wales respectively, thereby to render the resulting fabric of a non-run character substantially throughout, said fabric having at certain areas thereof stitches only of the body'thread laterally transferred to shape the fabric, the warp threads of the needle wales from which body thread stitches are so laterally transferred remaining untransferred in their respective needle wales.

9. A shaped or fashioned knitted stocking or blank therefor having courses composed of a knitted body thread and of a series .of warp threads extending lengthwise the said stocking or blank and respectively knitted in loops insuccessive courses into different loops of said body thread in such courses, stitches at the shaped or fashioned areas of said stocking or blank being laterally transferred to shape'or fashion the said stocking or blank, the warp threads being non- 'transferred at such points of lateral transferof stitches of the said body thread and lying each in its own needle wale.

10. A knitted stocking or blank therefor consisting of a main knitting thread and a seriesy of Warp threads extending lengthwise the fabricl and respectively knitted inrloops in successive courses into different loops of said body thread in such courses, the said stocking having'a picot edge wherein certain of the loops of the main knitting thread are laterally transferred to provide said picot edge, the warp threads of those needle wales wherefrom loops are laterally transferred to form ,the picot edge extending without lateral transfer in their respective needle wales.

11. A knitted stocking" or blank therefor consisting of a main knitting thread and a series of warp threads extending lengthwise the fabric and respectively knitted in loops in successive courses into diiferent loops of said body thread in such courses, the said stocking having a picot edge wherein certain of the' loops of the main knitting thread are laterally transferred to provide said picot edge, the warp threads of those needle wales wherefrom loops are laterally transferred to form the picot edge extending in a lengthwise direction through the picot openings without lateral transfer of said warp threads.

12. A knitted stocking or blank therefor consisting of a main knitting thread and a series of warp threads extending lengthwise the fabric and respectively knitted in loops in successive courses into different loopsof said body thread in such courses, the saidl stocking having a picot edge wherein certain of the loops of the main knitting thread are laterally transferred to provide said picot edge, the said warp threads at the picot edge being unlooped and continuing in theirrespective needle wales 'without lateral transfer.

13. A stocking of a non-run character com` prising a main knitting thread and Warp threads one to substantially each needle wale and restricted thereto, said stocking having main thread loops of certain needle wales laterally transferred to form a picot edge, the warp threads of those needle wales wherefrom main thread loops are laterally transferred extending without lateral transfer and in unlooped` condition through the picot openings formed by the said lateral transfer of main thread loops.

14. A stocking of a non-run character comprising a inain knitting thread and warp threads one to substantially each needle wale and restricted thereto, said stocking having main thread loops of certain' needle Wales laterally transferred to form a picot edge,-the warp threads of those needle wales'wherefrom main thread loops are laterally transferred extending without lateral transfer and` in unloopedconditionv throughthe picot openings formed by the s'aid lateral transferof main thread loops, such warp threads being looped in their respective wales of the main knitting thread into the mainthread loops both in advance of and following the picot edge. K

. HERBERT V. W. SCO'I'I. 

